Things to do · Ounila Valley
Running between Telouet and Aït Ben Haddou north of Ouarzazate, the Ounila Valley follows an old caravan route through terraced villages, granaries and earthen kasbahs. The unpaved road that threads it is one of the region's most scenic back ways. Here is what to do.
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The Ounila piste linked the Sahara with Marrakech long before the Tizi n'Tichka highway, winding past villages clinging to the slopes. Driving it by 4x4 is a journey through living history and dramatic mountain scenery.
At the southern end of the valley near Aït Ben Haddou, the crumbling Glaoui kasbah of Tamdaght rises among almond groves, its towers topped with stork nests. It served as a filming location and sees few visitors.
The valley is dotted with collective granaries, some built into caves and cliffs, where villagers once stored grain safe from raiders. These agadirs are a distinctive feature of the Ounila's earthen architecture.
Terraced Amazigh villages such as Assako and Tisselday step up the valley sides above gardens and the river. Walking through them offers a glimpse of mountain life little changed for generations.
The Ounila road links the Glaoui palace at Telouet with the UNESCO ksar of Aït Ben Haddou, making a superb day's circuit from Ouarzazate. The two great sites bookend a valley full of smaller wonders.
The river sustains a green ribbon of gardens, walnut and almond trees along the valley floor. Short walks beside the water are a cool, shaded contrast to the bare slopes above.
Stacked fields, earthen villages and red rock layers make the Ounila intensely photogenic. The interplay of green terraces and ochre hills is at its best in morning and evening light.
The valley passes striking eroded cliffs and strata that record the geology of the High Atlas. Several stretches reveal folded and tilted rock that adds drama to the drive.
Small cafes and family homes along the route offer mint tea and simple meals on terraces facing the valley. These unhurried pauses are part of the pleasure of travelling the Ounila slowly.
Tamdaght and other corners of the valley have appeared in films and series shot around Ouarzazate, including scenes for 'Game of Thrones'. Local guides can point out where crews worked.
Footpaths link the hamlets and gardens of the valley, offering walks from short strolls to longer days with a local guide. They reveal corners of the Ounila the road never reaches.
A handful of guesthouses in the villages let you spend a night in the valley, far from any town. The silence and the star-filled sky are a fitting end to a day on the old caravan road.
The Ounila Valley runs through the High Atlas north of Ouarzazate, linking the Glaoui kasbah of Telouet with Aït Ben Haddou. It lies off the main Tizi n'Tichka road and is followed by a scenic, largely unpaved track.
A 4x4 is recommended, as much of the valley road is unpaved and rough, with river crossings that can be tricky after rain. Many travellers explore it on a guided day trip from Ouarzazate combining Telouet and Aït Ben Haddou.
The drive itself, linking Telouet and Aït Ben Haddou through terraced villages, cliff granaries and the kasbah of Tamdaght, is the main draw. It is one of the most scenic and historic back routes in the Ouarzazate region.
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